I had been looking forward to this day, not just because it was probably flat and along the coast but it was a chance to see some of the D Day beaches. And it didn’t disappoint.
Firstly, it started off with a excellent breakfast, with a coffee cup bigger than some soup servings that I’ve had.

After a bit of bike maintenance; oiling the chain / pedals and tightening the mudguard reflector, which appears to be the only damage from the ‘Roubaix’ sections of the tour to date, I left in glorious sunshine 8:30am.
It was simple, head down into Grandcamps Maisy and then follow the coast. Even better there was a tailwind, but a bit chilly despite the sun. The miles flew past and soon I was at Omaha beach, the site of the US landings on 6 June 1944. After visiting the main monument on the coast I then cycled up to the Normandy American Cemetery, an immaculate and peaceful place only interrupted by a choir singing the Star Spangled Banner at 10:30am. On a purely practical note, it must take a huge team (I want to say ‘army’, but feel that’s not appropriate) of nocturnal gardeners to keep it looking so nice.


For the rest of the day there were many different exhibits and memorials all along the coast. Altogether now.








I may have been more interested in history at school if it had been more recent / relevant, instead of the Prussians and the 1815 Vienna Settlement (which I’ve only remembered to demonstrate how useless it’s been to me !). But then European history was probably a bit more sensitive before the wall came down and just 35 years after D Day.
As a couple of cyclists had mentioned at breakfast there was a steep hill coming out of Arromanche-les-Bains, as they had come down it yesterday from Caen. The first section of cobbles seemed ok and as I turned the corner I sill had one cog left. But then it turned left and ‘kicked up’ again to the 360 degree cinema. I was straight into my Granny gear (I do hope I haven’t offended anyone here) and at the point of no return. This was my ‘Muur’ or ‘Angliru’. I had to keep going as stopping was not an option and it would have been embarrassing to fall off in front of schoolkids and tourists at the top. Anyway I made it and the view was great.

I then pushed on to the Caen ferry port at Ouistreham and soon witnessed my first migrant camp firstly through the efforts of a local food kitchen and then makeshift tents in a wooded area behind.
With @15 miles to go I stopped for a relaxing coffee in Merville-Franceville listening to classic European chilled jazz on the seafront, anticipating an easy run in….
Passing through Cabourg, I was struck by the distinctive Norman architecture which the continued into Houlgate.




Leaving Houlgate brought me back to reality with a tough 2 mile climb up to Tolleville followed by steep descent into Villiers-sur-Mer, my stop for the night with 72 miles completed. When booking accommodation I usually prioritise on cost so was surprised when it turned out to be traditional Norman architecture (and the inside was as quirky as the outside – I was staying in the roof).

So that’s 6 days gone (forever and I’ll never have again, but given I have 3 weeks worth of memories I’m not too worried) and 6 days to go. It’s been a tough ride compared with the Rhine, which was essentially flat until the last 2 days. It’s also been very varied and I would encourage any walkers or cyclists to consider visiting the D Day coast, perhaps on a Cherbourg to Caen short break.