I opened the curtains to find some more ‘street art’ which given the characters, shows that they have been doing it since the 1980s. Has Pink Panther been cancelled; not seen him round this century.

With no breakfast included I was on the road by 7:45am fuelled by a couple of bananas and a chocolate bar. It was a grey and chilly morning needing arm warmers. After 3 miles continuing on the disused railway, it came to an end, but we need to be careful what we wish for….as the bloke in bar gestured to me yesterday, Vire is hilly.

They started off as moderate uphills and downhills and then became steep (meaning the 30+mph on the downhill quickly changed to 5mph on the uphill). And then the EV4 signs directed down into the darkest depths of a Normandy forest. As I approached the bottom it turned out to be an adventure park, built around three huge stone abutments from a disused railway spanning the valley.

Climbing up the other side was a struggle and I needed everyone of the 28 teeth on my largest rear sprocket to avoid walking. But it all became clear at the top that the abutments were a continuation of the adventure park with bungee jumps, climbs, swings and viewing platforms. Unfortunately, Extreme Sports at the Souleurve Viaduct wasn’t open at 9am.

After four ‘undulating’ days that climb was tough on the legs, so I consulted Google for alternative flatter routes to Saint Lo where I stopped for a good food shop at Carrefour and early lunch. I’m not sure what really came over me, but with a few people queuing at the manned checkouts, I opted for the self-scan, in French, when I even tend to avoid these in back home. I was obviously too relaxed. Luckily there was an assistant on call to support.

While having lunch it was interesting to note that they have installed USB chargers outside. I’ll know for next time.

The route out of Saint Lo followed the River Vire and was initially blocked from view by the very invasive Japanese Knotweed and then Himalayan Balsam, as Google Lens confirmed to me.

By this time the intensity of the rain has convinced me to put on my waterproof. It was also quite chilly and not like July. I was now also getting used to the stony tracks alongside the River, and still eternally grateful that  my Schwalbe tyres were holding up…..

Ever since crossing into Normandy yesterday, all the villages and towns are resplendent in red white and blue, together with flags of the allied forces. Many shop windows had also been decorated and there were monuments and museums around everywhere.

It’s easy to wonder what German tourists must make of the above but I came across this article (https://globalnews.ca/news/5361757/how-germany-feels-about-d-day/) from 2019 and the quote: “It has been a process to the point today where it is seen as Germany’s liberation from the Nazis by the Allied forces”. 

The plan for today had been to visit Utah beach, one of the five D Day beaches used in 1944, but due to increasingly blustery, damp and cold conditions, I headed across to my pre-booked Gite and postponed the ‘beach visits’ til tomorrow. Given the rural location I had pre-bought some snacks and supplies (Roadtrippin’) for dinner.

And finally it was nice to see Sir Mark Cavendish win his 35th stage at the TDF today, eclipsing the record by Eddy Merckx.