R2R Day 11 – Nieuwpoort to Burgh Haamstedt

I had dodged the forecasted rain for the last 3 days, having just had a few spots which was hardly worth the effort of a waterproof stop. More rain was forecast later today. I left the YH at @ 8:30am fairly relaxed about the last full day which would generally be following the coast.

In a kit update, a hole had now appeared in the rear of my cycling shorts so I now wearing my sleeping shorts on top to prevent any embarrassment (to others). I don’t think that these modern shorts can stand being hand washed and rung dry every night.

It was hard getting out of Nieuport when Google Maps directed me (via a very striking Golden Turtle) to a bridge that was being built / re-built, so I had a 4 km diversion round.

The cycle paths to Ostend generally followed main road and were less scenic than I had hoped, but turned along the waterfront just before the city with plenty of interesting sights. The Belgians have really made the most of their waterfront areas.

After a supermarket shop, I stopped for lunch @2pm at the end of a 3km seafront at Knokke Heist. After refueling, the next target was to reach Breskers, for what turned out to be a ferry to Vlissingen, about 18 miles. The route was well signed and scenic passing round the Zwim Natuurpark. There were lots of cyclists out given that it was a weekday.

I arrived at the ferry terminal at 3:22 to see the 3:18 depart disappear into the distance (how crucial was this….). Luckily they were every 30 minutes. Apparently there is also a tunnel, but bikes need to be booked on a bus in advance. I much preferred the ferry. Rather disconcertingly the lady selling me the ticket seemed to know that I was heading to Rotterdam. She also warned me about thunder and lightening later on… There were a couple of Dutch recumbentists well kitted out.

I arrived in Vlissingen @ 4:15pm, with about 24 miles to go, but I was on well signed tarmac’d cycle paths, so the going was good, but I was unable to keep ahead of the dark clouds behind. Heavy spots of rain as I crossed the first barrage became persistent as I crossed a second and there was also thunder and lightening (the ferry lady had been right). And then 3 km from Burgh Haamstedt, the rain became torrential (although I’d rather have all my rain at once !).

The trouble with travelling very light is that if anything gets wet there is no back up. Thankfully, by keeping my evening kit well wrapped in plastic bags, everything just about remained dry.

On arriving at my B&B, drenched, @6:15pm and after 80 miles, the owner agreed I should go straight to the shower before checking in. I then waited for a break in the rain find some food, a vegetarian curry with noodles (not sure if this a Dutch variation). I then kept getting asked if I wanted mayonnaise with it, which I didn’t, but agreed to avoid offence. When the mayonnaise arrived I was surprised to receive a portion of chips and salad, all, as it turns out, for just 95 cents which left me very confused on a number of levels !

So despite the rain (if I’d only arrived 5 minutes earlier at the ferry terminal – small margins) it had been another great day and all focus turned to planning the final day (and watching the first semi-final).